Koyasan

I have lived like a monk in a temple in the ancient Buddhist town on Mt. Koya, rising early to meditate and chant, breaking my fast on traditional shojin ryori, and then calming my restless Western spirit in the deep serenity of the twelve hundred year old Okunoin graveyard.

Mt. Koya

For over a thousand years, the mountain village of Koyasan, located in the very heart of Wakayama, has been a spiritual haven for Buddhist retreats and pilgrimage trails.

Celebrated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2004 and awarded 3 stars in the Michelin Green Book in 2009, Koyasan offers a mystical experience for the intrepid traveller.   Located in Wakayama Prefecture, Koyasan has been revered as one of the most sacred spots of Japan for over twelve hundred years. 

Kobo Daishi

The region was founded in 816 by Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, a monk, engineer, writer, and philosopher who brought Buddhism from China to Japan.  Kukai was a gifted calligrapher who invented the "kana" part of the Japanese writing system still in use today. His writings include over fifty illustrious religious works. 

Kukai or Kobo Daishi, regarded as "The Great Master that Propagated Buddhist Teachings", is thought to be in eternal meditation; hence, daily meals are offered at his gravesite and prayers are chanted for his return.

Kobo Daishi also founded a pilgrimage route of 88 temples around the neighbouring island of Shikoku with the trail beginning and ending at Koyasan. 

Mountainous Region

Rising 3000 feet (900 metres) above the world below, the region encompasses eight different peaks that visually resemble a lotus flower, the symbol of eternal meditation and the reason why Kobo Daishi chose the location.

The perfect setting for a spiritual retreat, Koyasan is a tranquil highland valley of densely wooded forests dotted with mountaintop temples and  monasteries. As the epicentre of a myriad of ancient pilgrimage routes stretching through deep forests and along mountain trails to the coast, this beautiful region exudes an atmosphere of hushed serenity, offering a meditative setting and a welcome opportunity to commune with nature as well as with the gods.

Pilgrims 

Pilgrims and hikers from all over the world push their spiritual and physical boundaries by walking the ancient Kumano Kodo trails that connect many of the coastal villages to the ancient religious temples of Koyasan. Pilgrims have been walking these trails for over a thousand years.

Okunoin Graveyard

A cemetery like no other in the world, Okunoin contains over 200,000 tombs and monuments of the faithful followers of Kobo Daishi's teachings. Many of the famous tombstones belong to historic feudal clans such as Toyotomi, Maeda, Matsudaira, and Asano; but the majority of graves house monks, nuns, prominent business leaders, war heroes, children and even pets. It is believed that anyone buried here is a "waiting spirit" who will return to life when the new Buddha appears on earth.  

The graveyard is hushed and beautiful. Massive cedars tower above umbrella pines and maple trees, while underfoot, thick moss slowly creeps over thousands of stone lanterns and ancient tombstones. 

It goes without saying that visitors are urged to be respectful of the sacred surroundings.

Jizo Statues

Dedicated to children who have died, Jizo statues are small and wear bright red bibs and woollen caps that parents donate to the temple hoping that their loved ones will be protected in the afterlife. 

Shokubo

Mt. Koya has over 117 temples housing monks and nuns, with approximately half of them offering accommodation to visitors wishing to experience a traditional "shokubo" stay. At these monasteries, visitors can stay in simple Japanese style rooms and eat traditional Buddhist monk cooking. Called "shojin ryori", it typically includes rice, miso soup, tempura, hot pot, vegetables, tofu, and fruit. Beer and sake can be ordered at extra cost - they are allowed in the Buddhist diet since they are made from grains.

Visitors usually rise at dawn to take part in meditation and sutra chanting alongside the monks. Other activities include watching a cleansing fire ritual, doing calligraphy, or tidying the temple gardens. 

Staying overnight in one of the many temples gives the traveller a chance to recuperate after the frenetic neon cities of Tokyo and Osaka. 

Summer Retreat

Years ago this was the summer home belonging to my husband's family. Located behind Okunoin, it has its own lovely traditional garden with koi pond and tea house. My father-in-law lovingly designed the house as well as the landscaping. The family spent their summers in Koyasan to escape the sweltering heat of Tokyo and Wakayama City. Now the house is owned by a Master Potter who is regarded as one of Japan's National Treasures. He has kindly promised us that he will look after the property with the utmost of care and attention. 

How to Get to Koyasan:

The easiest route is to leave from Osaka. Take the Nankai train line from Osaka's Namba station to Gokuraku-bashi station, about a 90 minute ride. Then take the cable car for five minutes up 900 metres to Mt. Koya. After disembarking from the cable car, there is a ten minute bus ride into the centre of town with an information centre and English speaking assistants.